Our experiences buying, and building a Vacation Home - Page 18

July-14th-2006, 07:38 PM

Those masons like us piper fitters(plumber actually) are a special breed....

Makes sense to actually get anchors points with the plaster... and wall looks very strong with all the "slush" and rebar... I believe you have built a VERYYYYY strong dwelling..
Once again... GrEAT post!!!! keep us informed and updated, especially with construction of the new house...
Thanks
Greg

jlg · July-14th-2006, 08:28 PM

Greg, I forgot to mention one really important thing, the reason for building the Shop, to get a realistic price per Square foot, so myself and readers could have some sort of actual figure to plan off of to build there Vacation/Retirement home. A home built to the best of my ability to good standards, using quality material, with comforts built in that we are custom to or would appreciate.

That magical number I came up with is $20 dollars a square foot.

To compare, using these materials and construction would cost you more than $100.00 per sq-ft, in most parts of the States, More in Hawaii, less in Alabama!

Now this number can vary considerably depending on finish materials and taste, but I think its close for the average guy like me. I have no intentions of putting a million dollar house on a ten thousand dollar piece of property, but I have a billion dollar view, does that count?

I guess to clarify, Its having a nice place for my Family and friends is whats important to me now, not showing off, like Forest Gumps mama always said, there's only so much fortune a man really needs... and the rest is just for showing off And when I'm racing my truck or bike ,every time I show off I usually crash and get hurt!!

Bryan

jlg · July-15th-2006, 05:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by canman

Hi Bryan,

I think the cooling system is a little different than the one that came with yours too.
Steve

Steve These engines come with this cooling, I actually changed it.

Just a refresher here is what I wrote,

They have one flaw when used for continuous use and that is the cooling system. It has a fan that blows air across an evaporative radiator; the belt tensioner and belt make it a trouble area. So if used for a generator for long periods of time here is a foolproof method to eliminate of that problem. Remove the entire radiator assembly fan and tensioner and replace with a thermo cooling system like this. Because it is open to the atmosphere it is impossible to overheat, just top off water ever now and then.

Also I added a spring assisted Shock on mine to maintain constant belt tension, when you rely on these for constant Power, you will appreciate these two simple improvements!

For you new readers the complete text description can be found on page5

Bryan

July-15th-2006, 12:20 PM

Hey Bryan,

Thanks for the advice/info. So your generator came with the cast aluminum "hopper" type cooling system? From what they are saying in the ebay listing, their 5 gallon cooling tank is open at the top which is supposed to aid in keeping the water cool, much like your design with the plastic barrel/tank you added. Is this not the case? You mention the original cooling system on yours had a fan blowing across the evaporative cooling tank, these guys are saying that there's no fan, belts, pulleys etc...your thoughts?

What about the point they bring up regarding brushes vs. brushless design on the generator head? Do you agree with their thinking?

I also have a question regarding your thoughts about the Stamford Newage generator end you're using....the claim they make on the st generator head is that is plenty stable to run computers, tv, refer, with no problem...you disagree?

You've convinced me of 2 things (so far). #1 buy the genertor in the P.I., #2 buy a smaller unit to start with. I pm'd my email address to you and am looking forward to the pdf you mentioned. I may very well take you up on your offer of help on the purchase in Manila too, but it wouldn't be til after the 1st of the year sometime.

Steve

jlg · July-15th-2006, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by canman

Hey Bryan,

Thanks for the advice/info. So your generator came with the cast aluminum "hopper" type cooling system? From what they are saying in the ebay listing, their 5 gallon cooling tank is open at the top which is supposed to aid in keeping the water cool, much like your design with the plastic barrel/tank you added. Is this not the case? You mention the original cooling system on yours had a fan blowing across the evaporative cooling tank, these guys are saying that there's no fan, belts, pulleys etc...your thoughts?
Steve

Steve you are correct it seems this is his answer to the cooling issue I explained, but a condensed version, I cannot comment on its ability to cool in a high humidity tropical atmosphere. I really didn't read the whole description, His price for what you are buying, in my opinion is not worth your trouble. You can buy them in the Philippines for much less and do the mod's your self.

Quote:

Originally Posted by canman

I also have a question regarding your thoughts about the Stamford Newage generator end you're using....the claim they make on the st generator head is that is plenty stable to run computers, tv, refer, with no problem...you disagree?

Steve, I have run both and there is a noticeable difference between the two. I will have to dig up my oscilloscope charts I made. My Buddy bought one similar to the one you are looking at. Any time we loaded it over 50% we noticed the florescent bulb and computer monitors flickering a bit , not enough to make you take a hammer to your computer but enough to notice. So I took my oscilloscope and downloaded a strip and it wasn't really clean power like the Stamford Newage.

Quote:

Originally Posted by canman

What about the point they bring up regarding brushes vs. brushless design on the generator head? Do you agree with their thinking?

I call foul on this one, I don't agree at all, Its old technology, I own a rental company and by far the best (and most expensive) rental Generators 11K to 750K in the world are Denyo and Airman, both use Brushless.

Now would I recommend buying one of these in the Philippines for stand by power for your house, sure I would and I am considering getting one for myself. For several reasons, they do Generate Power economically, Parts are readily available, and their cheep! Its just that my 5K Sumo (Brushless) has just really worked so well and I don't have the demand for more power YET! I have a water pump with one of these engines, an interesting side note I ran it on pure coconut oil!!!
Bryan

July-17th-2006, 12:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jlg

I cannot comment on its ability to cool in a high humidity tropical atmosphere.

Bryan,

Yeah I was wondering about the cooling in the tropical environment too, although the guy says there's alot of them running 24/7 in Texas powering irritation pumps without mention of cooling problems....doesn't matter, I'll heed your advice and buy over there. Once I have one picked out I'll ask for your input on the cooling for it.

Anyway on your project.....

When you were speaking about the concrete blocks (that you love to hate) you mentioned that one of the things you didn't like was the fact that they don't insulate well. Difficult to get any insulation inside of them too I suppose? I know it's probably too late for the shop/apartment but have you considered furring the interior walls out? You could use 2x2 over felt paper (for a barrier from the concrete moisture) then glue rigid foam insulation in between the furring strips. I've used this in flat roofs where there's no room for fiberglass or blow in insulation and you can get some pretty high R values from it. After gluing in the insulation you could either sheetrock over it or lath and plaster. This would also allow you to run wiring and plumbing inside the furred out (in) walls. You would still need to chip out some concrete for plumbing and electrical, but maybe not as much? If I recall correctly the rigid foam is available in 1 1/2" thick pieces, so if you used furring strips the same thickness it would come out flush. I'm not sure what the cost would be, but if you did it this way you wouldn't need to plaster the inside of the block walls, just glue your strips and insulation to the unfinished block. (might make it easier to hang a picture hook too!)

Steve

July-17th-2006, 11:19 PM

We are building a house in Iligan, and they are just starting to put the roof on. About 120 sq. meters, single story. Budget is 500,000 p, and it looks like we will over run by about 20%.

Our walls looked rough I was also confused as to why not fill with grout. The two masons just looked cofused as to why do it any other way. Having seen their work before tho, I didn't push it. Sure makes finishing the wall a tougher job. Lots of sanding.

Prices of materials varies quite a bit by area. A few examples from our area:

8 circuit electrical panel 1,800p
Circuit breakers 210p each
#8 standed THW wire 54p meter
#10 starnded wire 38 p
10mm steel bars 115p
12mm steel bars 162 p
16mm steel bars 287p
sheets 1/4 plywood 253p
sheets 1/4 marine ply 330p
cement bag 166p
load of sand or gravel (30 bags) 1100p
hollow blocks #6 10p
hollow blocks #4 6p

Easy to get 15% lower by buying large amounts. We also got our cement cheaper since all workers in the Iligan cement factory get discounts, and thats who we got them from. We got steel bar cheaper by buying a mix from my architect, who had given up on his house plans and he already had lots of steel.

We apy the masons 350p per day, and laborers about 200p. Fill dirt was major for us. Standby guys just kept bringing it for 5p ber bag. I know it was a few thousand bags.

jlg · July-18th-2006, 08:02 PM

Thanks for the Post Dave, Post some Pictures when you get a chance.

Bryan

July-19th-2006, 07:45 PM

Fantastic post. As a Bohol property owner and hopefully soon to be retired American/Filipina couple, you information was great. We have much of the same purchase experiences. Would appreciate all your info on the permitting of a new house. We have a house but are considering building other structures.
Your concrete comments were definately right on, especially water content. One additional comment that may not apply to you but might help someone else. The source of sand used in the concrete is most cheaply obtained from the beaches. The chloride content will quickly corrode rebar. The good contractors are aware of this and can get good sand, but it will cost more.
Keep up the good work. Can't wait for your next update.

July-20th-2006, 12:31 AM

I will get some pics up, and will scan our plans as well. I am having difficulty right now. For some reason I can see everyone elses posts except mine. Hmmm

BTW, I have two questions for you. We are getting ready to put up ceilings soon. What do you cut hardiflex with? I am sending circular saw with tuff-cut blades.

I also noticed you insulated under the outdoors roof section. Is that for sound or what?

July-14th-2006, 07:38 PM	#171 (permalink)
greg1234567 Guest Posts: n/a	oh those masons Those masons like us piper fitters(plumber actually) are a special breed.... Makes sense to actually get anchors points with the plaster... and wall looks very strong with all the "slush" and rebar... I believe you have built a VERYYYYY strong dwelling.. Once again... GrEAT post!!!! keep us informed and updated, especially with construction of the new house... Thanks Greg

July-19th-2006, 07:45 PM	#179 (permalink)
roxy00000pinay Guest Posts: n/a	Great Info Fantastic post. As a Bohol property owner and hopefully soon to be retired American/Filipina couple, you information was great. We have much of the same purchase experiences. Would appreciate all your info on the permitting of a new house. We have a house but are considering building other structures. Your concrete comments were definately right on, especially water content. One additional comment that may not apply to you but might help someone else. The source of sand used in the concrete is most cheaply obtained from the beaches. The chloride content will quickly corrode rebar. The good contractors are aware of this and can get good sand, but it will cost more. Keep up the good work. Can't wait for your next update.

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July-14th-2006, 08:28 PM	#172 (permalink)
jlg Asawa International Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 356 Location: Asia Benefits filed at:: Local Office Immigration Status: Naturalization Country of non-US Fiance / Spouse / Family Member:: Philippines	Greg, I forgot to mention one really important thing, the reason for building the Shop, to get a realistic price per Square foot, so myself and readers could have some sort of actual figure to plan off of to build there Vacation/Retirement home. A home built to the best of my ability to good standards, using quality material, with comforts built in that we are custom to or would appreciate. That magical number I came up with is $20 dollars a square foot. To compare, using these materials and construction would cost you more than $100.00 per sq-ft, in most parts of the States, More in Hawaii, less in Alabama! Now this number can vary considerably depending on finish materials and taste, but I think its close for the average guy like me. I have no intentions of putting a million dollar house on a ten thousand dollar piece of property, but I have a billion dollar view, does that count? I guess to clarify, Its having a nice place for my Family and friends is whats important to me now, not showing off, like Forest Gumps mama always said, there's only so much fortune a man really needs... and the rest is just for showing off And when I'm racing my truck or bike ,every time I show off I usually crash and get hurt!! Bryan

July-15th-2006, 12:20 PM	#174 (permalink)
canman Guest Posts: n/a	Hey Bryan, Thanks for the advice/info. So your generator came with the cast aluminum "hopper" type cooling system? From what they are saying in the ebay listing, their 5 gallon cooling tank is open at the top which is supposed to aid in keeping the water cool, much like your design with the plastic barrel/tank you added. Is this not the case? You mention the original cooling system on yours had a fan blowing across the evaporative cooling tank, these guys are saying that there's no fan, belts, pulleys etc...your thoughts? What about the point they bring up regarding brushes vs. brushless design on the generator head? Do you agree with their thinking? I also have a question regarding your thoughts about the Stamford Newage generator end you're using....the claim they make on the st generator head is that is plenty stable to run computers, tv, refer, with no problem...you disagree? You've convinced me of 2 things (so far). #1 buy the genertor in the P.I., #2 buy a smaller unit to start with. I pm'd my email address to you and am looking forward to the pdf you mentioned. I may very well take you up on your offer of help on the purchase in Manila too, but it wouldn't be til after the 1st of the year sometime. Steve

July-17th-2006, 11:19 PM	#177 (permalink)
Dave S Guest Posts: n/a	We are building a house in Iligan, and they are just starting to put the roof on. About 120 sq. meters, single story. Budget is 500,000 p, and it looks like we will over run by about 20%. Our walls looked rough I was also confused as to why not fill with grout. The two masons just looked cofused as to why do it any other way. Having seen their work before tho, I didn't push it. Sure makes finishing the wall a tougher job. Lots of sanding. Prices of materials varies quite a bit by area. A few examples from our area: 8 circuit electrical panel 1,800p Circuit breakers 210p each #8 standed THW wire 54p meter #10 starnded wire 38 p 10mm steel bars 115p 12mm steel bars 162 p 16mm steel bars 287p sheets 1/4 plywood 253p sheets 1/4 marine ply 330p cement bag 166p load of sand or gravel (30 bags) 1100p hollow blocks #6 10p hollow blocks #4 6p Easy to get 15% lower by buying large amounts. We also got our cement cheaper since all workers in the Iligan cement factory get discounts, and thats who we got them from. We got steel bar cheaper by buying a mix from my architect, who had given up on his house plans and he already had lots of steel. We apy the masons 350p per day, and laborers about 200p. Fill dirt was major for us. Standby guys just kept bringing it for 5p ber bag. I know it was a few thousand bags.

July-18th-2006, 08:02 PM	#178 (permalink)
jlg Asawa International Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 356 Location: Asia Benefits filed at:: Local Office Immigration Status: Naturalization Country of non-US Fiance / Spouse / Family Member:: Philippines	Thanks for the Post Dave, Post some Pictures when you get a chance. Bryan

July-20th-2006, 12:31 AM	#180 (permalink)
Dave S Guest Posts: n/a	I will get some pics up, and will scan our plans as well. I am having difficulty right now. For some reason I can see everyone elses posts except mine. Hmmm BTW, I have two questions for you. We are getting ready to put up ceilings soon. What do you cut hardiflex with? I am sending circular saw with tuff-cut blades. I also noticed you insulated under the outdoors roof section. Is that for sound or what?